How to Read Hair Levels and Undertones: Mastering Colour Precision
- HAIRNICORN
- Nov 28, 2025
- 2 min read
Why Hair Levels and Undertones Matter
Hair levels and undertones are the foundation of colour work. Levels indicate the lightness or darkness of hair, while undertones reveal hidden hues beneath the surface.
Understanding both allows hairstylists to predict colour outcomes, choose the correct toner, and avoid unwanted results like brassiness or muddy tones. Proper analysis builds confidence and enhances client trust, ensuring every service is precise and professional.
Understanding Hair Levels
Hair levels are a standardised scale from 1 (darkest black) to 10 (lightest blonde). Stylists use levels to determine how much lift or deposit is needed to achieve the desired shade. For example, moving a level 5 brunette to a level 8 blonde requires more lightening than adjusting a level 7. Accurate level assessment ensures you use the right formula and minimise damage, while achieving consistent results.
Identifying Undertones
Undertones are the underlying pigments that become visible as hair lightens. Dark hair may reveal red or orange undertones, while lighter hair may show yellow or pale gold.
Understanding undertones allows stylists to neutralise unwanted hues with complementary colours — for instance, using a violet toner to cancel yellow in blonde hair. Undertone awareness is critical for achieving natural, balanced colour.
How Levels and Undertones Work Together
Levels and undertones interact to determine final colour results. Lifting hair exposes underlying pigments, which can shift the intended tone if not accounted for. For example, lifting a level 4 dark brown may reveal strong red undertones, requiring careful toner selection. Predicting these interactions ensures smoother, more predictable transformations and prevents unwanted surprises during colouring.
Case Study: From Brassy to Beautiful
A stylist had a client requesting a platinum blonde, but her hair was naturally level 6 with warm red undertones. By analysing levels and undertones first, the stylist pre-lightened the hair strategically and applied a cool violet toner to neutralise warmth. The result was an even, polished blonde, the client was thrilled, and the stylist avoided multiple correction sessions. Understanding levels and undertones made the difference between a risky transformation and a professional finish.
Tools and Techniques
Using a colour chart, level swatches, and a colour wheel helps identify levels and undertones quickly. Many stylists also examine hair under natural light to see the true underlying tones. Digital tools or apps can assist with level identification and predictive outcomes, ensuring accuracy even in busy environments.
Tips for Accurate Assessment
Always evaluate hair before any chemical service. Check sections near the scalp, mid-lengths, and ends, as undertones can vary. Record your observations in a client profile for future reference. Testing small sections helps confirm expected results before applying colour to the full head, preventing missteps and maintaining client confidence.
Statistical Insight
Stylists who accurately read hair levels and undertones reduce correction appointments by 25–35% and improve client satisfaction. Predictive colour work saves time, enhances workflow, and builds a reputation for precision.
Fun Fact
Some stylists use a visual “level and undertone chart” taped near their station. It allows them to quickly cross-reference a client’s natural level and undertone with the target shade, streamlining decision-making during busy days.
Which do you find trickiest to assess?
0%Natural undertones
0%Previously coloured
0%Hair undertones
0%Level determination
What’s your go-to technique for identifying undertones before a colour service?
Share your methods and tips below 👇🏽
Comments